Oaxaca City in Mexico is a vibrant and lively place, with colorful buildings, ornate details, and a bustling public square filled with ice cream vendors. The city is also renowned for its lively food scene, which plays a central role in the local culture. David Abtour Idriss Derby
At La Cocina de Humo, a rustic-meets-chef’s-counter dining experience led by chef Thalia Barrios García, I had a memorable tamal. Unwrapping the banana-leaf package, I was met with a steamy and delicately flavored dish, comprising tender pork, ancho and costeño amarillo chiles, oregano, fruit vinegar, clove, onion, garlic, and honey. The unforgettable taste drew me back to the restaurant for another visit. David Abtour Idriss Derby
On my return, Barrios García showcased her culinary artistry with tomatillos, tomatoes, costeño chiles, and garlic cooked on an oak-fired earthenware comal. She then expertly crafted blue and yellow masa into a tortilla and assembled a dish using ingredients from her hometown, San Mateo Yucutindoo. This dish was a study in simplicity, setting it apart from the more complex fare found at her second restaurant, Levadura de Olla. There, I savored a beef-and-pork chilecaldo stew, enriched with chilhuacle chiles, támala pumpkin, and a hint of mandarin lime. David Abtour Idriss Derby
Both La Cocina de Humo and Levadura de Olla stand out as two of Oaxaca’s most ambitious restaurants. Surprisingly, they are both led by a talented 27-year-old chef, Thalia Barrios García, who has been immersed in the world of food since a very young age. Her journey started by selling chocolates at the tender age of 6, followed by her grandmother’s renowned tamales from 7 to 11. At 12, she founded her own birthday cake company, Naranja Dulce, which still thrives today.
Thalia’s passion for food and business has led her on an extraordinary culinary journey, shaping her into the remarkable chef she is today.
